FAQ

1. What are the differences between colors of HID KITS?

4300k - Factory standard white color which looks like OEM.

6000k - White with a hint of blue is the brightest white bulb.

8000k - ICE Blue looks very stylish and eye catching.

10000k - Deep blue color has a rich blue output.

12000k - Deep purple color has a rich purple output

2. What does each HID kit consist of?
Each kit comes with 2 bulbs, 2 ballasts, and all the necessary wiring accessories for a complete plug and play installation.
3. What are capacitors?
Often time, dashboard warning lights will go off (CANBUS error) on vehicles with computer controlled headlamp when an aftermarket HID system is installed. This is common in newer vehicles and luxury European makes. To overcome this, simply install a pair of capacitors with your HID kit. This accessory will also help with flickering issues that some vehicles may experience.
4. What is a relay harness?
Some vehicle’s electrical system may require a relay harness and if the vehicle has automatic or daytime running lights it may help resolve potential flickering issues or lights not turning on when connected to the HID kit. The relay harness will help regulate the power and keep the lights on when turned to the “on” switch.
5. What is the difference between the different HID ballasts we carry?
Standard high quality ballast (35w): Standard size ballast with 35 wattage going to the HID bulb. Standard slim high quality ballast (35w): Slim ballast which is about half the size of a regular ballast and it is also 35w, frequently used for installation on vehicle that is more compact in the engine area for easier installation. Premium powerful Super Slim High Quality Ballast (55w): provides 20% more wattage to the HID bulb, which provide 30-40% more brightness comparing with the 35w HID kit. CANBUS highest quality ballast (35w): Our top of line HID ballast with the most advance built in component that will eliminate any issue a vehicle’s computer system have with aftermarket HID. This ballast has the built in cancellers and will also help with flickering issues that some vehicles may experience. And the Canbus ballast also produces the light output (lumens) almost equivalent to 55w while only using 35w and the quality of the ballast is equivalent to OEM ballast. A very high quality HID Kit recommend for all year, make, and model vehicle. We recommend this ballast for all new vehicles.
6. What is the difference between a “Low Beam Xenon / High Beam Halogen” kit and a Bi-Xenon kit?
A Low Beam Xenon / High Beam Halogen kit coverts the low beam to HID while high beam stays as halogen. A Bi-Xenon Kit converts both low beam and high beam to HID with one single bulb that shifts upward when is switched to high beam. This upward shift in the Bi-Xenon bulb creates a further light projection to increase visibility. For most vehicles the Hi/Lo HID Kits are highly recommended since most car owners use only the low beams for everyday driving.
TROUBLESHOOTING: 1. Bulb(s) Won’t Fit

Potential Solutions:

• The bulb size is incorrect for the headlamp assembly. Double-check to see if it is correct or not.

• A special bulb holder is required. See if it is possible to scavenge the holder from the stock halogen bulb, or if we carry the bulb holder for your vehicle.

• There is an alternate way to insert and secure the bulb. Exhaust all possibilities by trying to install the bulbs into the socket at different angles.

• The base of the bulb needs to be modified. Compare the base of the stock halogen bulb to the HID bulb; shape the HID bulb’s base to match that of the stock halogen bulb via grinding, sanding, etc.

2. Wire(s) Won’t Fit (For Kit’s Wiring Harness)
Potential Solutions: • The bulb and/or wiring are the wrong one for the vehicle. Double-check to see if it is correct or not, especially if the vehicle is using an aftermarket headlamp assembly. • The factory harness plug that the kit is being connected to is incorrect. Double-check to see if it is the one that plugged in directly into the rear of the stock halogen bulb. • The pins or prongs of the kit’s wiring harness or relay (that go into the vehicle’s factory harness plug) need to be removed from their plugs and directly inserted into the factory harness plug. • The pins or prongs of the kit’s wiring harness or relay (that go into the vehicle’s factory harness plug) need to be physically modified to fit. • There may be splicing or hardwiring required to connect the kit to the vehicle’s headlamp electrical system.
3. One Side Flickers, Flashes, or Works Intermittently
Potential Solutions: • There may be a malfunctioning part. To determine this, simply swap the ballast from the non-working side to the working side to see if the problem follows. Do the same for the bulb. Whichever part that the problem follows is the culprit. • If even after swapping all parts the problem persists on the same side, there is a voltage problem with the vehicle. Hook up a relay to bypass this problem.
4. Both Sides Flicker, Flash, or Work Intermittently

Potential Solutions:

• Turn off the daytime running lights and/or auto-light on feature to prevent those features from affecting the operation of HIDs.

• A relay may be needed for specific vehicles to help regulate power for the kit so that the lights will stay on consistently.

• A pair of capacitors may be needed for specific vehicles to help store power for the kit so that the lights will stay on consistently.

• If the capacitors and/or relay fail to resolve this problem, there may be malfunctioning parts.

5. One Side Consistently Doesn’t Light Up

Potential Solutions:

• The headlight fuse is blown. Double-check either by inspection or plugging in the halogen bulb to see if it lights up (if it does, the fuse is okay). Replace with a 15 amp fuse if needed.

• The polarity is incorrect. Make sure that the polarity setting is the same as the other side of the vehicle.

• There may be a malfunctioning part. To determine this, simply swap the ballast from the non-working side to the working side to see if the problem follows. Do the same for the bulb. Whichever part that the problem follows is the culprit.

• If even after swapping parts the problem persists on the same side, there is a voltage problem with the vehicle. Hook up a relay to bypass this problem.

6. Both Sides Consistently Don’t Light Up

Potential Solutions:

• Both headlight fuses are blown. Double-check either by inspection or plugging in the halogen bulbs to see if they light up (if they do, the fuses are okay). Replace with 15 amp fuses if needed.

• The polarity is incorrect. Change the polarity and try all different settings until the lights turn on appropriately.

• If the fuses are okay and all polarity settings have been attempted but the problem remains, then there may be malfunctioning parts.

7. Low or High Beams Don’t Turn On (For Low Beam Xenon / High Beam Halogen, Bi-Xenon Kits)

Potential Solutions:

• The polarity setting must be changed until the low and high beams turn on appropriately.

• If this is a Low Beam Xenon / High Beam Halogen kit and all polarity settings have been attempted but the low beams still don’t turn on, then the vehicle has a double ground. A relay will be required to power the low beams.

• If this is a kit with a relay and all polarity settings have been attempted but either the low or high beams don’t turn on, then it is possible that there are malfunctioning parts.

8. Light Out Indicator Turns On

Potential Solutions:

• A pair of capacitors may add the resistance to fool CAN-bus into thinking that the HID kit is drawing the same as a 55W stock halogen bulb.

• If a pair of capacitors is insufficient, another pair of capacitors may be needed to overcome the CAN-bus.

9. Car Fuses Keep Popping

Potential Solutions:

• Check if 15 amp fuses are being used, since 10 amp fuses are more easily blown. Never use a 20 or higher amp fuse.

• If the fuses are already 15 amps, it is possible that the particular attached ballast is causing feedback which is blowing the fuse.

10. Low and High Beams Are Switched (For Low Beam Xenon / High Beam Halogen, Bi-Xenon Kits)

Potential Solutions:

• The polarity setting must be changed until the low and high beams turn on appropriately.

• If this is a Bi-Xenon kit, it is possible that the bulbs were installed upside down, such that the high beams are projected further downwards compared to low beams.

• If all polarity settings are attempted, then there may be crossed wiring somewhere in the kit.